Thursday, August 14, 2014

SO, WHAT IS EFFECTIVE SKIN CARE?



Let’s break effective skincare into three areas: Circulation, Stimulation and Protection.
Circulation
According to Dr. Ben Johnson circulation has everything to do with your skin's health and it is substantially overlooked by the skincare community. All the skin's food, immune support, antioxidant and remodeling efforts all come from the blood supply. Every time you are stressed, you drink coffee or go outside in cold weather, your skin suffers a little because all of these things restrict bloodflow to the dermis. Vitamin K, horse chestnut and caffeine in skincare products are all designed to reduce bloodflow. There is no skin condition (Rosacea, Dark Circles, etc) that is better off with less bloodflow. That is why the utilization of Retinaldehyde, Niacinamide, Camphor, and other circulation enhancing ingredients makes such a big difference in the quality and health of the skin. Bags under the eyes are the result of vasoconstriction (reduced bloodflow and the correlation between loss of blood supply and the thinning of the dermis with age are more than a coincidence. Remember, it is a thinning dermis that is the primary cause of visible capillaries. The reason capillaries return after treatment is because the skin wants adequate blood supply in the area. The best way to reduce this is to build back the collagen/elastin (in the dermis) that covers these vessels.
Stimulation

This is an important term because it needs to be differentiated from the typical remodeling strategies employed by most skincare companies. To highlight my point, we can discuss glycolic acid. This ingredient is in most products and is touted as a rejuvenating ingredient. The skin doesn't have glycolic acid receptors so its method of action is simply to destroy whatever it can. The reason there is any effect is only because the skin, in response to the devastation, replaces itself with new layers. The epidermis swells a little from the inflammation (temporarily reducing the appearance of lines), the new skin is less pigmented (helping hyperpigmentation superficially) but the net effect the skin's resources were used to repair the recent damage rather than repairing the substantial damage that was the initial treatment goal. So how do you stimulate the skin without damaging it? There a few ingredients for this task but one stands out as a clear leader, Retinaldehyde. The key remodeling components in the skin are the Fibroblasts. They make collagen, elastin and GAG's, all of which are critical to a youthful, wrinkle-free appearance. Trauma does activate them but for little net gain. Activating their receptors is the true target and Retinaldehyde does a wonderful job at stimulating Fibroblasts without trauma. Retinaldehyde is what the skin uses to make collagen by converting it to Retinoic Acid.

Protection

Most people think protection is a sunscreen, But a sunblock is better. Sunblocks like Titanium and Zinc, protect by reflecting UV rays before they penetrate. But the best method of protection actually comes at the cellular level. Antioxidants used in the skin include catalase, L-glutathione, L-superoxide dismutase, Vitamin C and E amongst other ones. We believe that the utilization of ingredients the skin recognizes vastly improves the protection ability. Antioxidants are constantly being used, restored and used again because we are literally in a constant state of inflammation. High dose antioxidants have proven to not only significantly reduce damage in the skin, they actually allow the skin to rebuild itself by shrinking the repair requirements, thus resulting in a thicker, healthier dermis. To make the process most effective, high percentages of these healing actives should be used and adjunctive ingredients like liposomal technology, ensures that they reach their target.


No comments:

Post a Comment